The Italian railway system (Ferrovie dello Stato or FS) remains extensive, notwithstanding there have been a considerable number of closures in the last 20-30 years. Still, many branch lines remain open to passenger traffic, and some are spectacular feats of engineering. Railways were constructed late in Italy. At the time of the railway boom in Britain, Italy was not a unified country and would not be so for 20 years. Most of the Italian rail network dates from the last two decades of the nineteenth century. The entire rail system was brought into public ownership in 1905 and has remained so ever since.
Italy was one of the first countries to electrify its rail system, starting in the 1930s. In the same decade, the FS pioneered the introduction of high speed trains. By the late 1930s, electric locomotives were hauling passenger trains regularly at over 100mph and were capable of much greater speeds on specially prepared main lines. Italy’s present rail system is roughly the same size as the UK, but it has twice the length of electrified track.
Italy’s infrastructure sustained significant damage between 1943 & 1945, and the rail network was particularly badly hit. Hence many stations are now of no architectural value, having been destroyed and later rebuilt cheaply in the most functional manner. There was a large programme of replacing rolling stock in the 1970s, particulary for regional routes, but soon the emphasis switched back to the development of high speed lines, completely replacing and by-passing the existing main lines. Consequently, the local network stagnated. In the past two decades there has been recognition of the fact that many of the local lines are uneconomic, and several have been closed.
The present situation is that the infrastructure is owned by Rete Ferroviaria Italiana (RFI) and most trains are operated by Trenitalia, both of which are subsidiaries of FS and therefore state owned. RFI allows other train operating companies to use the high speed network from which it derives revenue.
Travel by ‘Regionale’ train services remains remarkably cheap in comparison with the UK. For example, a single journey from Turin to Aosta around 150 kilometres deep into the Italian Alps costs under 10 Euros, which represents astounding value. However, don’t expect to travel first class; occasionally you will find yourself sitting in one of those carriages built in the ‘70s and ‘80s.
In 2013 Fondazione FS Italiane was created as an entity ultimately backed by the Italian government for the purpose of curating and managing Italian State Railways historic heritage including rolling stock, an extensive archive, and the national railway museum at Pietrarsa, between Naples and Salerno. The Fondazione is based in the same building in Rome that is the headquarters of FS.
Sulmona
Sulmona is located at the junction of four lines, one heading west to Rome, one east to Pescara, another north to L’Aquila and the fourth south to Castel di Sangro and beyond. Thirty years ago few people visited Sulmona, and English was not spoken anywhere, not even in the tourist information office. However, things changed when the likes of Ryanair started services to regional airports. If you are looking for a holiday in Italy and are seeking a base that offers several potential rail excursions, then Sulmona ought to be on your shortlist. It is of some considerable historical interest and the passagiata is very well attended, though I recall there was some tension between the locals and the cadets from the nearby Carabinieri school.
The two and a half hour journey from Rome is unremarkable until one reaches Tivoli, which takes about 30 minutes. Thereafter, the line cuts up a river valley for a while before winding through a series of mountain ranges, all the while climbing, until it reaches circa 900 metres. Then there is a rapid descent into Sulmona. Great views are to be had, though there are a lot of tunnels.
The line to L’Aquila follows the course of the River Aterno, sticking closely to it, and is therefore less scenic in comparison. L’Aquila sustained major damage from an earthquake in 2009, but is still worth a day. The most remarkable building is the Forte Spagnolo from where there are views up to the Gran Sasso D’Italia, Italy’s highest mountain south of the Alps. The Forte was constructed to withstand battery by early artillery pieces; however, its true purpose was to overawe the townspeople, it never saw ‘action’. From L’Aquila, the railway line continues to Terni, scenic as far as Rieti.
Unfortunately, regular FS services no longer run on the line from Sulmona to Castel di Sangro, they have been replaced permanently by buses, which is a shame. However, there are tourist services that run infrequently, details of which can be found on the Fondazione website. If one examines a map one can easily determine why the line is economically unviable in the modern age. It doubles back on itself innumerable times in the course of a journey of circa 80 kilometres, that is twice the distance by road. It used to be possible to travel from Sulmona direct to Naples on this route, but no longer.
Pescara and Chieti are also easily reachable by train from Sulmona, and from Pescara it is only a few minutes on the coastal line north to Pineto, a pleasant seaside town where an afternoon may be whiled away on the beach. Finally, for the more adventurous, there is a bus service from Sulmona to Lago di Scanno that is reached by an occasionally precarious road through a steep and narrow gorge.
Ferrovie dello Stato
Market day in Piazza Garibaldi, Sulmona, May 1998
Forte Spagnolo, L’Aquila, looking up to Gran Sasso d’Italia, with a bit of snow on top even in late May